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Chenille Yarn

I am sooooo frustrated. I tried (about 3 times frogging) to knit a simple washcloth from chenille yarn. Sometimes I tend to knit a little too tight, so I was careful to keep it fairly loose. The pattern called for yarn overs to increase and then knit two togethers to decrease. When I got to the K2Tog, I had the hardest time getting the needle into the 2 stitches (they seemed so tight) and I would always drop one of the stitches before it made it onto the working needle.

I am a newbie and have knitted a scarf before and this washcloth was a very easy pattern. I just can't get the K2tog right ----- I don't know if it was this yarn or what.....is chenille harder to knit?

Thanks for any advice you can give me!


Chenille can be a difficult yarn to work with. Cotton chenille in particular (and I assume you are using cotton for a wash cloth) can be clingy and difficult to move along the needle and it can take some muscle to do k2tog's. You might try a slip one knitwise, k1, pass slipped stitch over, in place of a k2tog if the slant of your decrease doesn't matter.

Rayon chenille can move a little easier but it is notorious for "worming" which is after you complete some knitting, you will see what appears to be loose loops working its way out of your knitting. One remedy to combat worming is to knit to a tighter gauge.

Thank you, KT. I think I'll shy away from chenille yarn until I become better at knitting! Is there any yarn that I should stay with for now that is better and won't present the problems that chenille does?

Many knitters use Sugar & Cream or Peaches & Cream worsted weight cotton to knit washcloths. I'm using some now to knit up some pot holders. It's a smooth cotton although when I knit cotton to a tighter gauge, such as for my pot holders, I find it somewhat tiring on my hands. Cotton does not have the "give" of wool so it can be harder on the hands.

My pattern is as follows:

CO 4 stitches
Increase Section:
K2, YO, K to end of row
Repeat Row 1 until 44 sts on needles

Decrease Section:
K1, K2 tog, YO, K2Tog, & K to end of row
Repeat Row 1 until 4 sts remain and Bind Off

My question is this: I have followed these instructions and my washcloth is not perfectly square. Its a little longer in one corner. Is this because of the YO in the decrease section? I wonder why the pattern would call for that YO.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I don't know why one end should be longer. Is it possible that your tension changed or that you added plain (no pattern) rows by mistake? Or did you maybe eliminate one of the decreases?

The yo is to maintain the eyelet pattern when you start to decrease. That's why there are two decreases in each row; one to decrease and one to compensate for the yo.

Try a tiny garter square made on the diagonal using just a solid increase (M 1 or K&P in the same stitch) and decreasing with the same method (k 2 tog would be fine) and see if it comes out square.

Alex had a good suggestion for you to try a sample with a different increase. Although many knitters can get almost a perfect square with garter stitch where 2 rows is equal in height to the width of one stitch, for some knitters and with some yarns you may get more of a rectangle, or when working this type of dishcloth pattern a diamond.

Also, as i read the pattern, you are always doing a yo at the beginning of the row so that when you finish all four sides should have decorative eyelets along the edge so the yo in and of itself should not be the cause of any distortion.

ok, thanks for your advice. I'm just about done with this dishcloth, but I'll try this on the next one.